How to Choose the Right Crampons for Ice Climbing Adventures

Going on an ice climbing expedition is both exhilarating and challenging. To conquer icy cliffs and frozen waterfalls, apart from water-resistant jackets and pants, you’ll also need the proper tools that provide the necessary grip and stability. Among the essential equipment, crampons stand out as a critical component that provides the grip and stability for you to conquer ice-covered landscapes.

Make sure to pack durable ice climbing crampons for your next adventure. They’re from high-quality steel, ensuring excellent resistance to rust and wear, which is crucial for the demanding conditions of ice climbing. The robust design focuses on long-lasting performance, allowing climbers to trust their gear on challenging terrains. Featuring sharp, precise points, these tools provide superior grip on ice, enhancing stability and safety. Their adjustable bindings ensure a secure fit for various boot sizes, while easy attachment systems make them user-friendly.

Frame Construction

ice crampons
Source: monodsports.com

When choosing ice crampons, one of the top things to consider is their frame construction. There are three main types: hinged, rigid, and semi-rigid. Hinged variations, known for their lightweight and flexibility, are great for general alpinism and level surfaces but not ideal for vertical ice climbing due to vibration issues. 

Rigid variations, on the other hand, offer excellent stability but are too clunky for general use. Semi-rigid variations are the most popular choice today, providing a balance between flexibility and rigidity. They often come with an adjustable bar, which makes them versatile depending on the climbing conditions. Understanding these differences can help you select the best construction for your specific needs. 

Binding

When you’re picking out ice climbing crampons, one of the most important factors to consider is the attachment system, which largely depends on the type of boots you have. There are three main types of attachment systems: strap-on, step-in (also known as automatic), and hybrid (sometimes referred to as mixed or semi-automatic) bindings. Serious climbers often prefer step-in and hybrid bindings. 

Strap-on variations are versatile and can be used with almost any type of boot. These systems, which often feature nylon straps, include designs like the “Scottish” style with a fixed front strap and multiple other straps attaching to side and rear posts. While these items might not fit as tightly as step-in models, they offer a good level of snugness suitable for low- to medium-intensity ice climbing. 

Step-in or automatic variations are equipped with a front wire bail for the boot toe and a heel lever at the back. They generally require boots with pronounced toe and heel welts to ensure a secure fit. When fitted correctly, step-in crampons provide excellent snugness and stability. An added bonus is that they’re relatively easy to secure, even when you’re wearing gloves. 

Hybrid crampons offer a blend of the two systems. They feature a heel lever or clip similar to step-in models but have a toe strap at the front. This means they require a boot with a pronounced heel welt, but not necessarily a groove at the toe. This makes hybrids a flexible option for climbers who need the security of a step-in heel with the adaptability of a toe strap. Understanding these different attachment systems and matching them to your boots can make a significant difference in your experience, ensuring safety and performance. 

Materials

When choosing ice climbing or dry tooling crampons, the material they’re made of is a crucial consideration. You’ll typically find designs made from either steel or aluminium. Steel variations are ideal because of their durability and strength. They can withstand the wear and tear that comes with frequent contact with rock surfaces, which is common in alpine and mixed climbing. They can last for many years, and you can sharpen their points multiple times, maintaining their effectiveness over time. 

On the other hand, aluminium designs are prised for their lightweight nature. They can be a great choice if you’re looking to minimise the weight you’re carrying. However, they don’t offer the same level of durability as steel. The softer points of aluminium crampons aren’t as resilient against rock and you can only sharpen them a few times before they become ineffective. So, think about the type of climbing you’ll be doing and how important durability versus weight is for your adventures. 

Front-Point Configurations

mountaineering boots
Source: outdoorgearlab.com

Another key feature to consider when browsing through ice climbing crampons for sale is the configuration of the front points, as their style, shape, and number can greatly influence the type of climbing and surfaces they’re best suited for. Here are some variations you’ll need to weigh: 

  • Horizontally vs vertically oriented points: Horizontal points are versatile and provide good grip in general mountaineering settings. On the other hand, vertical points are often serrated and resemble an ice axe point. These are more specialized and ideal for technical vertical waterfall and mixed climbs; 
  • Dual vs mono points: Dual points is the most common configuration, suitable for most types of climbing. As for mono points – sometimes climbers use them for vertical ice climbing or dry tooling on bare rock. They offer precision in these climbing scenarios. 
  • Modular vs fixed points: Modular points are adjustable in configuration for different surfaces and they’re replaceable when dull, making them a good choice for hard-ice or mixed climbing. Fixed points can be sharpened, but only to a certain extent. They tend to be lighter and more stable than modular setups. 

How Do You Use Ice Crampons?

First and foremost, your crampons must fit your foot and boot perfectly to be effective. When you’re trying them on at the store, wear your preferred ice-climbing boots. If you use multiple pairs on a typical climb, bring those along as well to ensure compatibility with all your footwear. Additionally, if you plan to wear gaiters or over-boots, make sure your crampons fit with these accessories too. 

For gentle to moderately steep snow or ice slopes, climbers typically use a technique called flat-footing. This involves biting into the surface with all the points of the tool. There are several variations of flat-footing, including forward-facing and sideways arrangements, often supported by an ice ax in various positions like cane, cross-body, or anchor. When tackling steep, vertical, or overhanging ice climbs, or mountainsides covered in hard ice or snow, you’ll need to use front-pointing. This technique involves kicking the front points of the crampons directly into the ice, supporting your body weight on those points while using the ice ax in dagger, anchor, or traction positions. 

It’s also crucial to know when to use your ice crampons. They’re essential for steep, frozen slopes and walls but can hinder you on slushy snow or soft ice, where skis or snowshoes might be more effective. While high-quality tools can handle stretches of bare rock for mixed climbs or dry-tooling, excessive climbing on rock will wear them down quickly. 

After every climb, make sure to carefully clean and inspect them. You don’t want to be caught off guard by dulled points or fraying straps in the middle of a challenging route. Sharpening, repairing, or replacing parts as needed is crucial. If you’re wondering how to sharpen them, a hand file works perfectly fine. Remember, steel points can withstand repeated sharpening much better than the softer aluminium ones.